Mealtime Memories: At the table with Supermarché PA's Sam Erimos
For Sam Erimos, childhood meals were overflowing with the flavours of Greece: tins of olive oil sent from overseas, fish fried whole, greens dressed with lemon and oil, and the dishes his mother made from old Greek cookbooks. Easter brought lamb, roasted potatoes and long family meals—the kind of gatherings that made food inseparable from family.
Those early memories would later help shape Supermarché PA. In 1989, Erimos and his brother Taso bought a small, struggling grocery store in Montreal’s multi-ethnic Mile End neighbourhood on Parc Avenue (hence the PA). Sam was just 22 and working as a fishmonger; Taso was a cable technician. With help from their parents, they grew the four-person operation into an independent, family-run chain, now with six locations: four downtown, one in Laval, and one opened in June in Pointe-Claire.
In this edition of Mealtime Memories, Erimos talks about the foods he grew up with, the traditions he has carried forward, his love of seafood and good olive oil, and why the best meals are ultimately about who is gathered around the table.
Were there particular Greek dishes, ingredients or traditions that were an important part of your family life while growing up?
Growing up with immigrant parents, food was a major part of the family meal. I remember these old cookbooks my mom had from Greece, and she perfected her art [from those]. There was pastitsio, moussaka, spanakopita—the usual stuff. There was also Greek lemon soup, one of my favourites. Orzo in the oven with lamb. My parents didn’t come from a coastal region in Greece [they came from Sparta], but nonetheless fish was also a big part of family meals, primarily fried whole fish. I used to love that. There are a lot of Kalamata olives in that region. Olive oil was a big part of our household. We used to get tins shipped in from Greece—my mom would have a lot of things shipped from Greece. She would also marinate vegetables and make her own tomato paste from scratch. Boiled greens were very popular, with olive oil and lemon. I didn’t like them when I was younger, but I love them now.
Is there a meal, holiday or gathering from your childhood that you remember especially vividly? What was on the table?
Easter was the biggest holiday in the Greek community, and there was always a lot of lamb. On Easter Eve, after church, there’s a particular stew that is made less often now. It’s made with the intestines, heart and liver of the lamb, in an egg-and-lemon sauce. That was big because we fasted during Lent before Easter. In Greek Lent, you’re not allowed to eat meat for 40 days, so this was the first time we ate meat again. It was actually a heavy stew, with dill, shallots and greens. I always looked forward to that. It’s less common today because there’s a lot of work involved in making it! The next day, they would make a garlic dip with garlic and olive oil, and lots of roasted potatoes. There was always Greek salad with feta cheese and oregano.
How did those early experiences with food influence the way you approached Supermarché PA and the kinds of products you wanted to offer customers?
We like to keep our identity as a Greek retailer, and that extends into Mediterranean food because there are a lot of similar cultures. Especially in today’s world, with more Middle Eastern people coming in, there are a lot of similarities. . . kebabs, sauces and pulses. All we had to do was import a lot of it and sell more of it. Today we keep that identity. Mediterranean food is a key part of who we are as a retailer. Whether it’s Greece, Italy or Spain, we bring in a lot of food—that’s what differentiates us as a grocer versus the large chain stores selling more packaged local products.
Your website also highlights foods made in Canada and Quebec. Do you have any personal favourites?
We like to support local growers whenever it’s available. Unfortunately, we don’t have enough of it here because the weather doesn’t cooperate! As for favourites, obviously Quebec strawberries, Quebec blueberries and Quebec maple syrup—I’m a big fan. There are also great artisanal products. For example, [Montreal restaurateur and celebrity chef] Chuck Hughes makes a lot of different sauces and spreads that are great condiments.
What is a recent mealtime moment you didn’t want to end?
Actually, it was in Greece last summer. I had gone to Greece with my wife, my two children and my daughter’s fiancé. We were in Crete, at a nice resort, and they had this beautiful buffet set out with all my childhood favourites—roasted lamb, grilled fish, moussaka. We tried everything. I think we must have dined for two-and-a-half hours, and then we had to walk for two-and-a-half hours to digest all of it. The weather was fantastic, we were right by the ocean, and it was truly a memorable experience.
What’s your signature hosting move or must-serve dish when you’re entertaining or cooking?
One of the things I really like to make as an hors d’oeuvre is fresh scallops. Just with butter, salt, pepper and a little garlic. A nice quick fry, give them a nice char, and that’s pretty much all a scallop needs. A little lemon, and it stands out on its own. Garlic shrimp in the oven is another thing I like doing.
What’s one thing you think is worth paying a little more for?
People should be paying more for a premium olive oil. I do think every household should have two types of olive oil. One is for cooking in a recipe, and then you should have a nice aromatic olive oil—preferably Greek, but there are some really good Italian olive oils as well as Spanish—just for drizzling, to add a little flavour.
Is there an ingredient you think does more work in a dish than people give it credit for?
I have a few favourites, actually. Blue cheese is definitely one of them, especially if you’re making a sauce. I think it can bring a lot of flavour out in just about any sauce or any dish, so I use that a lot. I’m also a big fan of Dijon mustard. And olive oil, obviously, for drizzling.
Finish this sentence: A memorable meal is not complete without…
Good friends and family.
